In NATURE, THE WILD UMBRIA

Hunting, companionship and wild nature

Most people know Italy from vacations with sun, pasta and red wine. But as a hunter, you also have the opportunity to participate in an Italian wild game hunt – provided you make the right preparations and you have the right contacts.

The time is approaching 8.30, and the fog still lies like a soft rug in some of the deepest valleys, as the 26 hunters, who are going to join in on today’s hunt one after the other begins to show up.
We are in the middle of Italy in the hilly region of Umbria, also known as Italy’s green heart. Here between hills and valleys, rocks and trees, where nature thru out time has made it hard for farmers to survive, we have gathered go on a wide gravel road.

22 out of 26 men are members of the local consortium who forever holds the right to hunt in this area. A right that, in addition, exceeds the landowners who have bought the land. The right was given to the consortium back in the Middle Ages – as a kind of compensation from the resident conte to the people who lived there in the area and worked on his lands – but nothing owned by themselves. A right that gives this group of men the right to hunt everywhere in this area – even across the fields of others.

A marriage savior

The hunters, the oldest of which is 92, and the youngest is just above 30, goes hunting all season three times a week. And they are gone most of the day. As 82-year-old Antonio with a broad toothless smile explains, it keeps both men and women in the area happy; the men because they are allowed to be with their companions and the women because they get rid of their men for a while. “A true marriage savior,” Antonio notes, adding that the companionship and the peace and quietness out here is primarily the reason he is participating. For as he says; “I’ve shot enough wild boar in my life. Now I just appreciate the other things.”

Because of the relaxed mood no one is in a hurry to get the hunt started. Everyone has a time. To talk to each other. To talk about the last hunt. Ask about friends and family. During the conversations, the day’s parpadella dolce is being past around by a hunter with red cheeks. Parpadella dolce is the local slang for “missed shot” – and by nature is handed out by the hunter who at the last hunt shot without hitting the game. “Il Capitano”, in the real world called Giancarlo Polito, and is a talented chef and owner of one of the best restaurants in the area, gets joked with while sharing today’s parpardelle dolce.

A hour later – when all posts for today’s hunt have been divided between the hunters, we are left at our post with clear demands about which direction we can and can not shot. Security has high priority! Here is no wild west attitude, and you can undoubtedly feel in safe hands – even if you do not speak fluent Italian.

Wolves and honors

We are in the northern part of Umbria – well 50 km from the border to Tuscany. A beautiful area in ​​Italy’s green heart, where hunting, happiness and food obviously fit together perfectly. The first hunt of the morning, unfortunately ended without shots fired – despite the fact that the 12 dogs with bells and bark did their best to chase wildly towards our positions. Several times, the dogs also seemed to have tracked game – so one could hear on their intense barking – but the only game we saw were deer and, as the season for hunting deer not is now, they all went unscathed through the line of hunters Here all are men of honor – and no one could dream of shooting something that is not allowed. Not even the wolves in the area, says Giancarlo Polito, as we are heading back for the big homemade lunch.
“We do not like the wolves. They take the game, are dangerous for those who collect mushrooms, and there are too many wolves lately. But they are protected by law so what can we do ?! he asks with a little frustrated gesticulator and an Italian shrug, which leaves no doubt that this bothers both him and others.
Back by the gravel road, several of the other hunters have started preparing for lunch. There is a bonfire, tables and chairs have been set up, and one after another the hunters bring their contribution to the lunch. Some have pasta dishes, other meats and other bread, cheese and sausages. Everything made by small local producers, of course. Well, yes, also the red wine of course. It is also included. Most have a glass or two – but not more. Safety and alcohol are not a match when you go hunting, explains the President of the Consortium, Francesco Grassini.

La Dolce Vita

Also lunch is characterized by both good time and good atmosphere. Some of the hunters mention that they could smell the unmistakable odor of wild boar out there. But no one really saw anything.
After lunch, a little cake and a cup of good strong coffee that makes one think of La Dolce Vita, it’s time for today’s second hunt.
The afternoon drive takes place on the other side of the mountain, next to a lavender field, and the post is good, we are told.
Already half an hour inside the drive, we can hear that the barking of the dogs has more intensity! The barks get higher and higher – and they are coming towards our post.
Suddenly there are two rifle shots – right after one another. We look at each other and nod. And soon after it is confirmed on walkie-talki: one of the other hunters has hit not only one but two wild boar. Not bad.
The rest of the afternoon did not result in more wild boar, we could conclude when everyone gathered at the group’s slaughterhouse where all game is cleaned before it is hung up for maturation and locked in a decked cover. Like the other wild boars from this autumn hunts. There is nothing left hanging outside – otherwise the wolves will eat it.
Today’s hunt is closed and sealed with a small glass of grappa or red wine, according to taste and pleasure. After about seven hours, both men and dogs are tired. But they will be seeing each other soon. As long as the hunt for wild boar is allowed, they meet three times a week.

Facts about hunting in Italy

On Tuesdays and Fridays you must not hunt in Italy. This applies to the whole country.

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